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Into the Wild meets Helter Skelter in this riveting true story of a modern-day homesteading family in the deepest reaches of the Alaskan wilderness—and of the chilling secrets of its maniacal, spellbinding patriarch.
When Papa Pilgrim, his wife, and their fifteen children appeared in the Alaska frontier outpost of McCarthy, their new neighbors saw them as a shining example of the homespun Christian ideal. But behind the family's proud piety and beautiful old-timey music lay Pilgrim's dark past: his strange connection to the Kennedy assassination and a trail of chaos and anguish that followed him from Dallas and New Mexico. Pilgrim soon sparked a tense confrontation with the National Park Service fiercely dividing the community over where a citizen’s rights end and the government’s power begins. As the battle grew more intense, the turmoil in his brood made it increasingly difficult to tell whether his children were messianic followers or hostages in desperate need of rescue.
In this powerful piece of Americana, written with uncommon grace and high drama, veteran Alaska journalist, Tom Kizzia uses his unparalleled access to capture an era-defining clash between environmentalists and pioneers ignited by a mesmerizing sociopath who held a town and a family captive.
- Sales Rank: #164098 in eBooks
- Published on: 2013-07-16
- Released on: 2013-07-16
- Format: Kindle eBook
Amazon.com Review
An Amazon Best Book of the Year for 2013: When the "Pilgrim" family rolled into the old mining outpost of McCarthy, Alaska, they were a sight to behold: Robert "Papa Pilgrim" Hale, his wife Country Rose, and their 15 children--an old-fashioned, piously Christian family from another time, packed into two ramshackle campers. Looking for the space and freedom to live out their lives as they pleased, they were welcomed as kindred souls by the ghost town's few residents. A tad eccentric, they quickly ingratiated themselves into the tiny frontier community through Papa's charisma, their apparent dedication to self-reliance, and occasional family performances of their unique blend of gospel and bluegrass, music that seemed to soar on the conviction of their beliefs. And when they purchased an old mining claim in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park with plans to permanently settle there (dubbing it “Hillbilly Heaven”), it seemed the Pilgrim family had come home to the last existing place in America that suited them.
But Hale chafed against the regulations that came with being a National Park inholder, and he quickly adopted an adversarial stance with the NPS, refusing to communicate with or even acknowledge its rangers. Everything went sideways when he bulldozed a road to town across national park lands, stopping just short of McCarthy in an attempt to avoid scrutiny. It didn't work. When the road was discovered by backpackers, NPS agents were fast on the scene and all over the Pilgrims' activities, and suddenly the humble hermit became a lightning rod for property-rights activists in McCarthy, Alaska, and far beyond.
That's where Tom Kizzia entered the story. As a reporter for the Anchorage Daily News, he wrote a series of lengthy articles on the family's struggle with the federal government, and he soon discovered that Papa's past belied the tales he told about himself and his clan. This simple man of faith carried a long, strange, and troubled history: the violent death of his first wife, whom he married when she was 16, and who also happened to be the daughter of Texas governor John Connally; his hippie phase (when he went by the name "Sunstar"), filled with drug-fueled epiphanies and raging outbursts; a contentious relationship with his neighbors in the New Mexico wilderness, who accused Hale of casual disregard for laws that didn't suit his interests (especially the ones related to "Thou shalt not steal"); and worst of all, a dominion over his children that hinted at the most vile forms of abuse. As the situation with the NPS degraded and grew more tense, Hale's behavior became more erratic, driving himself and the entire town toward a denouement reminiscent of Night of the Hunter and Robert Mitchum’s own creepy and deranged (if fictional) preacher.
With Pilgrim's Wilderness, Kizzia has expanded on his original reporting and written a spellbinding tale of narcissism and religious mania's concussive effects on Hale's family and adopted town, a book that's likely to end up on many 2013 Best Of lists.--Jon Foro
Sample images from Pilgrim's Wilderness The ghost town of McCarthy in the winter of 1983,the year six residents died in a mass murder on mail
plane day. (credit: Barbara Hodgin)
Click here for a larger image
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the size of Switzerland,is the scene of the story. A roof from the old copper
mining complex glints to the right of the glacier, with
McCarthy and its airstrip in the trees at center.
(credit: Danny Rosenkrans, National Park Service)
Click here for a larger image
The Pilgrim Family Minstrels found fame in Alaska playingat music festivals and recording a CD.Here some of them
performed in 2003 for visitors at their mountain cabin in
Alaska. Papa Pilgrim is at the right. (credit: Blaine Harden)
Click here for a larger image
From Booklist
This strong work of reportage starts in 2002, when Papa Pilgrim, his wife, and 14 kids buy a 420-acre mining claim embedded in Alaska’s Wrangell–St. Elias National Park. Papa bulldozes a 13-mile road through the park to tiny McCarthy, and land-rights groups stick with the Pilgrims even when it is revealed that Papa is Robert Hale, born and raised in upper-class Fort Worth. Hale was the only witness when his pregnant high-school girlfriend, daughter of future governor John Connally, shot herself in the back of the head with a fingerprint-free shotgun. Hale’s life brimmed with bizarre murkiness—named in an FBI file on JFK; his mother helping Lee Harvey Oswald get work; squatting for 20 years on Jack Nicholson’s New Mexico ranch; and hints of a dinner with Charles Manson. In Alaska, it turns out that for decades Hale has used physical, mental, and sexual abuse to brainwash his whole family. His intriguing past crumbles in comparison to his excruciating cruelty and to the inspiring grace and strength of his children. --Dane Carr
Review
#5 on Amazon's Best 100 Books of the Year
A Mother Jones Best Book of the Year
An Outside Best Adventure Book of the Year
"Extraordinary...Mr. Kizzia has done an outstanding job unpacking Pilgrim's story; the book is superbly researched, the writing clear and unflinching." —Wall Street Journal
"Pilgrim's Wilderness is measured, painstakingly reported and gripping, giving us a true look at an escapist nightmare in America's mythic and fading frontier." —Los Angeles Times
“Not since The Shining has family life off the grid seemed as terrifying as it does in Pilgrim’s Wilderness, by Tom Kizzia, but this time the chills come from nonfiction."
– Arts Beat, New York Times
“With even reporting and spare, lovely prose, Kizzia exposes the tyrannies of faith, and a family’s desperate unraveling. It will make your skin crawl.”–The Daily Beast
"For those awaiting the next Jon Krakauer-esque classic, look to an Alaskan writer named Tom Kizzia… A gripping nonfiction thriller told with masterful clarity…I’m betting it will be the sleeper hit of the summer. Put it at the top of your stack.”–Outside Magazine
“Reads like a bewitching, brilliant novel... Even in the hands of a mediocre writer, this story would be mesmerizing. But Kizzia’s gifts as a journalist and writer are such that it is a powerhouse of a book, destined to become a wilderness-tale classic like Jon Krakauer’s Into the Wild. On one level, it’s a brilliant exploration of the kinds of frontier issues that most of America put away more than 100 years ago — rugged individualism vs. community cooperation and compromise, and wilderness harnessers vs. preservationists. But most and best of all, it is the story of how a pack of illiterate, brainwashed children came to realize that the man they looked up to as a god was actually a tyrant, and how they found the courage to break free. Here’s to them, and to Kizzia for telling their incredible story.”
– Minneapolis Star Tribune
“Kizzia is a smart, tough reporter who knows a good story when he sees one and doesn't let go… [Pilgrim’s Wilderness] is a masterful book. One of its strengths is that by sticking to the story and not trying to do too much, it does just about everything. Another is the way Kizzia withholds information until the right moment, building suspense by staying with a linear narrative that gradually reveals the monster at the center.” – Portland Oregonian
"Absorbing...The family’s brutal unraveling is a shocking tale readers won’t soon forget." - Seattle Times
“The central figure in this book crosses paths with an incredible constellation of the famous and notorious and becomes a sort of evil, Alaskan Forrest Gump….an irresistible page-turner.” – Dallas Morning News
"The mixture of Texas weirdness with Alaska nativism provides for riveting reading...Kizzia expertly goes back and forth in time to reveal the details of Papa Pilgrim's journey from would-be messiah to pariah."–Austin American Statesman
"As the Pilgrims go from activists championed by Sarah Palin to musicians beloved by Portland hipsters to a horrifying fall from grace, Kizzia’s clear-eyed depiction never wavers. His even-handed and, at times, sympathetic treatment of the Pilgrims makes the full reveal of Hale’s monstrous behavior that much more appalling—and the tale of redemption that ends the book that much more heart-wrenching." – Metropulse
"A riveting read." – Texas Monthly
“Sends readers on a roller-coaster ride that is as thrilling as it is shocking. Kizzia’s work is a testament to both the cruelty and resiliency of the human spirit, capturing the sort of life-and-death struggle that can only occur on the fringes of modern-day civilization.” –Publishers Weekly
"Meticulously researched, Pilgrim’s Wilderness is an absorbing and substantive education on America’s Last Frontier encased in a blood-pumping, nightmarish family drama as brutal as the wilderness itself. Kizzia writes of Alaska with the affection and steadiness of a weathered travel guide—the kind who knows the best route in. And the best route out.”–Kirkus Reviews
"Strong work of reportage... [Papa Pilgrim's] intriguing past crumbles in comparison to his excruciating cruelty and to the inspiring grace and strength of his children."–Booklist
“The riveting story of a megalomaniacal sociopath who left a trail of woe from Texas to the Great White North, Pilgrim’s Wilderness lends credence to the maxim that the unadulterated truth, when conveyed with sufficient skill, is not only more illuminating than fiction, but also more entertaining. Tom Kizzia has written an uncommonly insightful book about post-frontier Alaska, an ambitious literary work disguised as a page-turner, very much in the tradition of Edward Hoagland’s Notes From the Century Before and John McPhee’s Coming into the Country.” –Jon Krakauer, author of Into the Wild and Under the Banner of Heaven
"This is a riveting, mesmerizing story, stunning and eloquent all at the same time. I simply couldn't put it down." —Ken Burns, filmmaker, The Civil War and The National Parks: America's Best Idea
“Tom Kizzia's superb book is startling, unpredictable, haunting, clear-eyed, unrelenting, sad, and beautiful. Pilgrim's Wilderness, in other words, is like Alaska itself, a subject the author understands deeply and evokes with uncommon skill.” – David Maraniss, author of When Pride Still Mattered and They Marched into Sunlight
“What an epic story – sociopathy and crazy ideology hits the final frontier. Jon Krakauer couldn’t have done it any better.” – Bill McKibben, author of Eaarth and Deep Economy
“Pilgrim’s Wilderness is a fine book, methodically narrating a tale of libertarianism gone haywire on a genuine frontier.” – Edward Hoagland, author of Children Are Diamonds
“Pilgrim’s Wilderness is a terrifying masterpiece, elegantly written, painstakingly researched, and impossible to put down. Tom Kizzia has created a classic American Gothic, chilling, irresistible and wise.” – Blaine Harden, author of Escape from Camp 14
“Tom Kizzia’s Pilgrim’s Wilderness is a bizarre and twisted Alaska saga of mythic proportions. This nonfiction gem has ‘Hollywood hit’ written all over it. Once you start reading, you won’t be able to put it down.” – Douglas Brinkley, author of The Quiet World
“There isn't a bad sentence in Pilgrim’s Wilderness, not a dull page or sour note. A masterpiece of reporting and storytelling.” – Zev Chafets, author of Cooperstown Confidential and A Match Made in Heaven
“The bizarre and tragic true story that unfolds in the pages of this extraordinary book is like nothing else I have ever read. Through prodigious research, blending compassion with investigative skill, Tom Kizzia has woven a mythic tale out of that most mythic of American landscapes – Alaska.” – David Roberts, author of Alone on the Ice
“Tom Kizzia hasn't just observed and written about Alaska for three-plus decades, he's lived it. Pilgrim's Wilderness is a story that needed to be told by the only man who could tell it.” – Tom Bodett, author of Williwaw! and The End of the Road
“Alaska as a land of self-invention and frontier contradictions has never been better captured than in Pilgrim’s Wilderness. Tom Kizzia, “Neighbor Tom” to the enigmatic figure at the center of this riveting story, combines an insider’s view with thorough and compassionate investigative reporting. This fascinating, harrowing, ultimately redemptive, and beautifully written account is sure to become a classic.” – Nancy Lord, former Alaska Writer Laureate and author of Fish Camp, Beluga Days and Early Warming
“In Pilgrim's Wilderness Tom Kizzia uncovers the tragic confrontation between America's frontier past and its settled future. "The Last Frontier" is the hot bed and Alaskans probably the most divided and conflicted of all. Mix this with the attraction that frontiers have for the unstable, darker forces in the human personality and we get the startling case of Papa Pilgrim and his family, as well as a hell of a yarn.” —Carl Pope, former executive director of The Sierra Club and author of Strategic Ignorance
“A stunning and downright scary tale by one of Alaska's most knowledgeable journalists. Tom Kizzia's investigative talents and his love of America's frontier state come through clearly in this true story that reads like a novel.” –James Risser, two-time winner of the Pulitzer Prize for national reporting
"Pilgrim’s Wilderness is not a book -- it’s a powerful magnet, and once you begin you will not be able to pull yourself away. This spellbinding, shocking, and, yes, inspirational story of a family’s journey into the heart of darkness delivers the raw power and revelatory truth of a Scorcese film. Except better, because every word is true." –Daniel Coyle,author of The Secret Race and The Talent Code.
Most helpful customer reviews
220 of 228 people found the following review helpful.
The End of the Road - An Alaskan Tale of Horror and Adventure
By Fairbanks Reader - Bonnie Brody
Alaska tends to attract eccentric people. It's a frontier and there are communities that are actually the end of the road. To go further, one must traverse rivers, streams, mountains and brush - all without roads or regular access. It happened in 2002 that a man calling himself Papa Pilgrim arrived in McCarthy, Alaska with his wife and thirteen children. McCarthy, a very small community in the summer and a nearly empty community in the winter is, indeed, the end of the road and the entrance to the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the largest national park in the United States.
Papa Pilgrim, once known in Texas as Robert Hale, had a sketchy background. He was married once to a woman named Kathleen who died with a shotgun blast to the back of her head. The gun had no fingerprints on it and Robert was let go with the death deemed accidental. Kathleen was pregnant at the time of her death. Robert married two more times and fathered four children before he met 16 year-old Kurana Rose who he married when he was 33. By this time he had found religion and was a bible thumping Christian who interpreted the scriptures in his own profoundly arrogant way. He traveled to New Mexico but ran into troubles with his neighbors and the law there. He ended up in Alaska finding Fairbanks and Anchorage too urban and big, and running into trouble in both places.
When he arrived in McCarthy with his then 13 children, he ended up bulldozing a road into the National Park. A long and contentious legal battle ensued with the park because he was said not to have gotten the correct licenses to clear the land. He settled in a remote area of the park near an abandoned copper mine that he called the Mother Lode. His family lived in a one-room cabin that was so small that the only way they could sleep at night was to line up in sleeping bags on the floor. By the time he reached McCarthy, he was known as Papa Pilgrim and his wife was called Country Rose. The older children, who once had hippie names, were renamed biblically. While in Hillbilly Heaven, three more children were born.
On the outside, things looked idyllic with the Pilgrim clan but some people were suspicious. McCarthy was divided about whether they liked or disliked this family and whether they sided with the National Park Service or with the Pilgrims. However, it didn't take long to realize that all was not as it seemed with the Pilgrim family. Though they played music beautifully, all self-taught, the children could not read, they were being physically and sexually abused, and domestic violence was predominant in the household, all perpetrated by Papa Pilgrim.
This book is derived from a series of articles published by Tom Kizzia in an Anchorage newspaper. He has done further investigation to make these articles into a book and it is a page-turner of the best sort. It is fascinating and frightening but it is hard to stop reading it. Most importantly, it is all true. If you like books like Helter Skelter or other true crime novels; if you like reading outdoor adventure stories; then this book is for you. There is not a boring page to be found.
I must add one caveat. I lived in Fairbanks for 44 years and have visited McCarthy where my husband has served as artist in residence for the last two years. He will be there this summer as well. He travels deep into the Wrangell-St Elias mountains to paint and spends a lot of time in the town as well. I know some of the characters in the book and it made it all that more real for me. Kizzia captures the town of McCarthy and its people very well.
113 of 120 people found the following review helpful.
Great writing, disturbing subject
By Joel Holtz
Tom Kizzia's written a gripping account of a very sick and demented individual, Papa Pilgrim, who used to be known as Bobby Hale. Hale was simply a sexual pervert, master manipulator, drunk, burglar, abusive parent, and possibly a murderer.
This guy beat his own kids and wife, raped his own daughter, and constantly condoned stealing from other people. Towards the end of the book I literally said out loud to myself, "how can a human being act like that?"
In the end, his drinking and diabetes and other ailments killed him. You almost want to feel sorry for the guy but I just couldn't. Any human being who insists on being called "Lord" has some major mental problems.
There are heroes in this book. The Buckingham family, who took in the kids after they left their abusive father. (And also Hale's abused wife, for that matter too). They gave them food and housing and showed grace to them.
Hale's first born daughter, Elishaba, is also one of the heroes of the book. Her courage to testify about her father's sexual and physical abuse would inspire anybody.
Lastly, the author himself, Kizzia is a hero. While researching Papa Pilgrim and his story, his wife died of ovarian cancer. He writes beautifully about her and her passion for the environment, and gives a moving tribute in the book to her.
Chapter 5, HOSTILE TERRITORY, about the dangers of being a park ranger, is for me the best in the book and is outstanding.
48 of 50 people found the following review helpful.
Now we know why
By William S Jamison
The title of Tom Kizzia's new book: Pilgrim's Wilderness: A True Story of Faith and Madness on the Alaskan Frontier is an accurate title for the book. Because of the father's evil madness, the family life was not what it seemed to be to the public. Their beautiful music and prairie clothing hid the physical damage that their father inflicted upon them.
We bought one of their Newfoundland/ Great Pyrenees puppies one winter when they lived in Soldatna, Alaska. We were at their home for about an hour of two. We were fooled into thinking they were a happy Christian family. Though my wife's mother's intuition told her that something was off the only thing that looked off was one of the youngest little girls wearing a scarf across her face in the house. Now we know why.
For an interesting interview with the author have a look at this link:
media.aprn.org/2013/toa-20130723.mp3
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